• Destination: Bonanza Peak (9511')
• Date: June 04-06, 2008
• Starting Point:  Holden Village (3262')
• High Point: Bonanza Peak (9511')
• Round Trip Distance: c.14 miles
• Equipment: The ten essentials, ice axe, crampons, glacier travel gear
• Difficulties: Route finding, glacier travel, 4th class scrambling

  For about two months, Wade, Jason, and I had planned for a big weekend over the 4th on Rainier. Looking at the weather forecast for the weekend, it was obvious that Rainier was not going to go. Well, onto our weather backup plan, which has happed much to often this year. Heinrich opted out due to the fact that he had already bagged the peak.
Wade and I left Oak Harbor early to meet the Lady Of The Lake at Field’s Point Landing, a much better option than the boat dock in Chelan.  The Lady Of The Lake is definitely the slow boat to Lucerne, stopping at every possible spot to disgorge people of all descriptions. When we finally arrived at Lucerne we were met by the bus ran by the Lutheran retreat at Holden. Wade had done his research and procured for us reservations on the bus to Holden, which are available by email only. The cost for the bus ride has risen (hasn’t everything?) to $15 round trip, exact change only.
The town of Holden escapes an easy description. It was a mining company town from the turn of the century until the late fifties, when it was donated to the Lutheran church. The church operates it as a retreat, but anyone is welcome to stay. Most of the old mining buildings are intact, including a bowling alley, as well as two saunas and a hot tub. We arrived just in time for the Holden Fourth of July parade, which consisted of costumed revilers parading up and down the main street. No fireworks, though.

The hike up to Holden pass went quickly, under four hours. After a quick camp and discovering that white gas can go bad, and that Mountain House will rehydrate with cold water, we set our alarms and hit the sack. 

After a 4AM wake up, we started climbing. The route goes over a third class step and gains the Mary Green Glacier after some scrambling up third class slabs. The glacier was in excellent shape, and we took a more direct route than the meandering route described in Beckey. The bergschrund was easily passed, and we met up with another party of two, who graciously waited for us so we could climb as a team of four to avoid any party inflicted rockfall from gaining too much momentum.

These guys were well on their way to taking climbing to another level. The week prior they had run a half marathon at just over an hour, and then did the approach to the West Ridge on Forbidden to the notch in a day. For this trip, they had just run a 10K or such the day prior.
This route gets so much traffic most of the big stuff had already been pulled down. The rock was loose, but not unusually so. We made the summit three hours after leaving camp, unable to enjoy the views due a sudden decrease in visibility.

On the descent, we elected not to rappel due to the ease of the down climbing and the possibility of pulling off rocks with the ropes. We arrived back in camp two hours and fifteen minutes after leaving the summit.
Having the whole afternoon available, I elected to run up Martin Peak, while Wade relaxed and dreamed of killer picas. The West Ridge route on Martin does not have much to recommend. After slogging up scree forever, I decided to get on the ridge and get off route. I discovered why this is not recommended after travelling over some very loose fourth class. My luck held out at the summit, as the weather had not cleared on I had no view. On the descent, I elected to rap the fourth class slabby gully, and set up the only rap station on the entire route. I arrived back at camp five hours after leaving. I considered this route rather unpleasant, not one that I will repeat any time soon. After I arrived back at camp and had some cold Top Ramen, the rain started.
The next day dawned clear, and after a scenic hike down we arrived at Holden, fifteen minutes too late for the bus for the fast boat. Near the lake we were privileged to witness the rare mating dance of the hoary marmot.

While waiting for the boat in Lucerne, we jumped in for a quick dip, quick being the operative term. I discovered that the lake is much colder at this end. The boat ride back to Field’s Landing passed quickly in discussion with two teachers who were climbing all summer. I want that job!

Overall, the route is in excellent condition at the present, with no major difficulties. Catch to boat at Field’s landing and get reservations for the bus to Holden via email. Camp at Holden Pass, a scenic spot that sets you up well for the route. Leave four to five hours for the West Ridge on Martin.