KYES PEAK: Better than an oyster

            It was a tough decision.  The weather was bomber, but Wade only had Saturday day off.  Skagit County required his expertise on Sunday to inspect food during the annual Oyster Run in Anacortes.  The question was, which peak should we attempt?  After much discussion and angst and rending of clothes, it was decided that Kyes peak via the South Ridge would be our destination for the day.  Beckey does not accurately describe the approach, but Smoot gives a good detailed route description that gave 5-6 hours to the summit from the car.  A few reports off of the Internet reported 12 ½ to 13 ½ hours round trip.  We figured on 10 hours with about 12 miles round trip and 5500 feet elevation gain.  We then set about recruiting George and Jill for the fun.

            We met at Sharps Corner early, and were on the trail at 0730.  The first half of the elevation and mileage are gained on Blanca Lake Trail, a popular and well-maintained trail.  The cross country route leaves the trail at Virgin Lake, a small tarn with good camping spots, and follows a sharp ridge towards the peak.  The start of the route up the ridge is appropriately marked by a blaze on a tree and some oyster shells.  From here the route follows a sharp ridge to a col then up to an open scree filled basin.  The ridge turned out to be the crux of the route, with continuous scrambling and traversing over steep terrain on a trail that was hard to follow in places.  To bypass one of the ridge gendarmes, I traversed left via an exposed third class ledge.  Thinking that there was an easier way around, I yelled back to Wade to look for other options.  Smoot had described descending down 100 feet to make a steep traverse over heather and rock around one of the gendarmes.  After searching for a bit, an alternate route was found but it also was exposed and steep.  After some deliberation and consternation, Wade and George decided that they would turn around here and not risk the exposure.

The route from the trail; on the ridge

The ridge crest; Glacier Peak

            Jill and I continued along the ridge, which was continuous scrambling with great views to Columbia Peak and Blanca Lake. We followed the ridge through the col and up into the basin.  From here the route finding was straightforward on scree up to the summit ridge.  Here we crossed over to the East side of the ridge and kicked steps on the permanent snowfield that exists there.  From there the route follows the ridge up to the summit.  However, we had other ideas.  Seeing a cairn and footprints on the Southeast Ridge, we assumed that the route went there.  We climbed within 30 feet of the summit and were stopped by fifth class terrain.  Traversing around to our original route, we climbed it to the summit.  The final 100 feet is over crumbly rock covered with kitty litter, which cannot be protected.  It is third class, but has exposure.

Columbia Peak and Blanca Lake

Summit views  

Summit glory, Monte Cristo in the background

            After a quick rest on the summit, we retraced our route down the mountain and to the ridge.  The route on the ridge was hard to find in places, and we spent a few minutes making sure that we were going were we wanted to.  The terrain gets very steep real quick here, so caution is required to ensure that the route is followed.  After making it back to the trail, we high tailed it down to the car, completing the trip in 11 ½ hours.  Wade and George were waiting with chilled beers.

            Overall, this is a good outing in a scenic area, but should only be attempted by experienced scramblers comfortable on third class terrain.  Plan for a full day.  If you are considering Monte Cristo from Kyes, be warned that the ridge connecting the two looked fifth class.