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Skagit Alpine Club – July 2010 Newsletter
Skagit Alpine Club mission statement: "To promote the use and prevent the abuse of outdoor recreation areas"....SAC Articles of Incorporation
Meeting: Our July meeting will be a picnic/potluck held at 6:00 p.m. on Wednesday, July 7th at Bowman Bay (north of Deception Pass. Thanks to our Social Director, Wade Bessett, for organizing this! Directions: Drive Hwy 20 south towards Deception Pass; immediately south of Pass Lake go right (west) on Rosario Rd; take the next left on Bowman Bay Rd and park close to the beach
The next club meeting is going to be our traditional potluck picnic “outing” and the weather will be stellar! Bowman Bay is a beautiful place that most of you know already but if you don’t then find out more at:
It’s a POTLUCK, so please bring food to share. Bring your own drink: it’s a state park, therefore open consumption of alcohol is not allowed (that means find a way to be discreet about it if you choose to bring some). So that we do not all bring spaghetti, please bring something from the following categories based on your LAST name: A-H Salad or side dish
I-Q Main dish
R-Z Dessert (that means Steve brings a pie hopefully)
Wade will be there setting up by 5:15 pm. If anyone can get there sooner please do so and claim a good picnic area with a couple of tables. We do not have a shelter rented/reserved, but if one is unoccupied then we could claim it that evening for free. Brings chairs or a blanket to sit on and a picnic table cover it you have one and will be there during set up. This park is a wonderful place to hike, play on the beach, canoe, or kayak, so bring your fun toys and hiking shoes and enjoy the environment as well as the food and camaraderie. It is a very kid/family friendly place.
Secretary‘s Report:
Old Business:
Jason Griffith had a Baby.
Wade B, our social chair announced that this year’s July picnic will be held July 7th at Bowman's Bay near Anacortes. Eating time will be at 6:00pm, please show up early to set up and feel free to bring a kayak or whatever. Wade sill send out an email with more details soon. Wade also suggested that the club ought to organize a late summer club outing. Some suggestions were renting a group site in Leavenworth or Washington Pass area. Wade made a motion that the club pay for and organize a late summer outing, JG second the motion and it passed. .
Food and Drink Schedule:
New Business: JG- Announced that Chris Gourley is making T-shirts for this year’s climbing class. Any club member can purchase a shirt for 15 bucks. Contact Chris Gourley.
Someone asked if the club will be making anymore regular SAC T-shirts for members. Jason thought that we should get some more.
Karen Howard- Announced that there will be a work party at Wade B's new house June 13th. Bring tools and or plants and such.
Chris D.- Gave a climbing class update. All is going well with the class. No incidents to report. Everyone seems to be learning a lot.
JG- Gives big thanks to Chris Danilson for his hard work on the Climbing Class this year and years past.
JG- The club will be looking for some new officers this year. We are looking for a new program coordinator also. Please Help!
Lookout Committee- The Park Butte LO is in need of a work party this year. The building needs a paint job and other minor repairs. The work party will be held August 21 this year. There may be a "situation" with the toilet this year due to a lack of funding in the forest/parks dept and we may need to address this issue. More to come...
Trail Work: JG announced that next Saturday is National Trail Day: Lots of local work parties
Lynn P.- Announced the PNTG will be working their magic at Bowman Bay next Saturday at 9am.
Ginny D.- Will be hosting a guided trail walk on Little Mt. this weekend, all people are welcome.
Wade B.- Announced that he would be willing to hold a crevasse rescue clinic this July/summer. He will use the list serve to round em up.
Program:
No program due to technical difficulties.
Lookout: Submitted by Marie Erbstoeszer
Park Butte Lookout News:
Save the Date – This year's Park Butte Lookout Work Party will be Saturday and Sunday, August 21 and 22. We will be repainting the Lookout and doing some window work. More details will follow in early August.
Outing(s): PACIFIC NORTHWEST TRAIL WORK SCHEDULE Submitted by Lynn Postler
Attention Hikers and Climbers! Here is an opportunity to help keep our local trails cleared and beautiful. The PNTA volunteer group works on trails in Deception Pass State Park, Blanchard, Anderson, Swift Creek, and along the South Fork of the Nooksack. Meet at 8:15 AM at the Cook Road Exit for a day of fun and work. Bring your lunch, work gloves, and rain gear. All tools will be provided. For more info email Lynn at sancho999@comcast.net. Hope to see you there!
July 3 and 17 August 7 and 21 September 4 and 18 October 2 and 16
Conservation Report: Submitted by Maggie Sullivan
The following is a brief outline of what has occurred since the draft plan was adopted:
Nov 2, 09 Anacortes City Council Adopts '09 ACFL Comp plan
Jan 14, 10 Notice sent out by Parks and Rec that instructional climbing groups on Erie won't need hold harmless, proof of insurance or waivers. General rules: max group size 50, carpool to summit, pack out trash, and notify Parks & Rec of intended use.
Feb 4, 10 ACFL - FAB (Forest Advisory Board) approves Mt Erie Committee:
Tim Nelson (local climber), Dallas Kloke (local climber), Jason Martin (climbing guide), Susan Wood (naturalist) and Laurie Quirk (Anacortes resident-at- large). All three climbers were very involved in the '09 ACFL / Erie draft plan process.
Mar 4, 10 FAB meeting...
items the FAB would like the Erie Committee to address:
-policy for placement of and replacement of "hardware" -"baseline" for what "hardware" now exists on Erie -concern that city not be responsible for anchors and climber activities -concern with upper wall area environmental impact -define what areas are used for "off trail travel" - ie scrambling -how might the FAB communicate info/expectations to the climbing community? -should there be a seasonal closure of some routes? -a map of Erie trails and climbing routes. -general topics: erosion, sanitation, cleaning of routes, hardware, flora/fauna protection, scrambling "trails", size of groups, policies regarding for-profit groups
Mar 11, 10 -First Mt Erie Committee Meeting
present: Susan Wood, Tim Nelson, Dallas Kloke, Jason Martin absent: Laurie Q. others present: John Lunsford (ACFL manager), Wade Bessett, Harold Mead and Maggie Sullivan
-Tim suggested the group have a Mt Erie site visit to include high and low impact areas. He will design the site visit route. -Have two small three sided Kiosks for climbers, one on top and one at the bottom. Possible uses: maps, leave no trace info., messages to each other, info re environmental topics ie falcon protection, land ownership boundaries, etc. -John L had a map of private property around Erie -discussion of bolting types and ethics, city is not responsible for anchors or bolts and shouldn't get involved, education for bolting issues. -question on FAB's issue with scrambling....John L stated " the plan made it clear that scrambling occurs on the So. Side" and doesn't see a problem with that issue. - John L questions putting up new routes and cleaning too much on routes....possibly have a public process for this.... -Tim wants to establish an email box for climbing related issues, and a suggestion box on the kiosks -Wade suggested an avenue for donations to Erie to allow the climbing community to feel involved and have "ownership". -John L can set up a Mt Erie email and "Mt Erie maintenance fund" -Seattle Mountaineers would like to have 75-100 people /day for their April 2011 climbing class. John L will bring in their letter at the next mtg.
May 26, 10 Site Visit by Mt Erie Committee
present: Susan W, Tim N, Jason M, Laurie Q, Jon L, Harold M and Maggie S. Absent: Dallas K and Wade B.
Route, lead by Tim Nelson: We went up the Mail Wall Trail, then over towards Snag Buttress. We looked at Zig-Zag, Frogs in Space and Pinhead as representations of popular climbing areas. Noted little impact on the areas. Traversed over to the Main Wall Trail directly under Skyline Arête to where Black Wall hits the Cedar Trail. We looked at and talked about the Black Wall, Jungle Jim Wall and Big Snag Wall climbing areas....noted "historic pitons". Went up the Cedar Trail, but didn't go as planned up to the old Cirque Trail due to slimy, wet rock and a possible turkey vulture nesting site. At the top of Cedar Trail , we went down Sunset Trail...on the way looking at the top and bottom of Sunset Slabs.
The non climbers of the committee had never been to any of these areas. During the visit, we traveled over wet rock - it was raining - , and observed bolts properly and improperly placed, discussed the right type of bolts to use, how climbers access climbing routes and witnessed high and low impact on belay stations.
Next meeting date and agenda to be determined.......
Climbing Class:
Special Announcement/Event:
Washington Trails Association Work Party schedule: Sign up at www.wta.org
Trip Report(s): Eldorado, 6/26/2010 Submitted by Chris Gourley
A year of yearning and a week and a half of planning led Josh G, Don H, and me, Chris G, up the Cascade River Road to milepost 20. Friday night we ate a quick dinner in Sedro-Woolley at the Greek place (which is very tasty if you haven't been) and we were out! We didn't get to the parking area until about 8:30, but at this time of year, that isn't a plan stopper. Preparing for a hike can take time, but we threw a lot of stuff in grocery bags and assembled at the trailhead parking lot. Josh threw out the tarp and began spreading out the gear. Biners, prussiks, harnesses, pickets, slings, and a plethora of dried fruit was sprawled across the tarp in an effort to inventory what we each needed. Once the bags were packed, we all curled up in the newest fad in trailers. We opened the bed lid to Don's truck, laid out a bunch of squishy mats, topped them with sleeping bags, and threw a tarp over top of the lid. Bug protection- check. Warmth- check. Squished chick in the middle- check. Seriously, it wasn't bad, but if they were both on their backs, I had to lie on my side... and listen to the soft snoring. But I made it to 4 am with a little sleep and we were up. We used the convenient facilities there in the parking lot and ate some breakfast and had some chai tea lattes. And what amazing dehydrated meal did we eat, you ask? Why, it was a reconstituted casserole of hashbrowns, eggs, and sausage. It was yummy and I am happy to pass along the recipe to anyone who is as crazy about their dehydrator as I am. The night before we had found out about a group of Seattle Mountaineers that were also headed up and in the early part of the day, we learned there were 9 people and we all knew the hop scotch was about to begin.
By 5:15 we were on the "trail" crossing the raging torrent of a river on tiny little logs. Ok, so maybe it isn't a torrent and the logs are quite substantial, but anyone that knows me knows that I am not a fan of crossing water. About 100 yards back to the west of the parking lot is the "trail" and the logs are very easy to identify as the ones that are crossable. Once we got across, it was smooth sailing- well as smooth as it can be on *that* trail. In case you haven't heard, the Eldorado trail is hailed as one of the worst in the north Cascades. It essentially climbs 1800 feet in about a mile or so. And yes, you feel every step. Crawling over large fallen trees and stepping up ladders of roots get you really sweating in no time. The trail is in good condition otherwise and the soft needles and duff layer are something you will likely crave on your way back down. Why? Because the next obstacle on the journey is a talus field. Oh no, wait... two.
Stepping on to the talus field you can just feel the joy that is being exuded from each member on your team. "Oh boy," we all think. "Two hours of boulder hopping? Could it be any better?" Well, no. Not really. The talus is full of wobbly teeter totter rocks, but I find that they add an air of excitement to the trip. Never really knowing if that rock will hold you keeps you on the balls of your feet! There were cute little marmots all over and I counted at least 4. Following the cairns helps you get to the right place, but essentially, you are just headed up. We took along some flagging with us to mark the trail. The last time we attempted Eldorado, we had a hard time finding the trail on the way back down. A bright pink piece of ribbon can really help that! Not that it mattered, because we missed the majority of the trail on the second talus field. Stay climber's right and you will find it, which will make your trip a little easier. Well, unless you rock at boulders. Get it? Rock?!
We broke through the top of the talus fields directly into snow. This was at about 5500 feet and this is the area to fill up all your water containers. We didn't filter our water, and no one died, but it's up to you. I didn't put any bacteria into the stream though, so I bet you will be ok. Then came just a bit of navigating through trees and over snowbridges to find your way to the ridge line. Last year about this time, when Josh and I attempted before, the snow level was a bit higher and there was less worry about snow bridges. This year, lots of snow, so a little more caution for a few hundred feet. So we let the other group lead for a while. That was the first pass.
Crossing the ridgeline is about one of the hardest things on the Eldorado trek. You need to cross at just the right spot, or you are kinda screwed. 6150 feet seems to be the magic number. Once we got to the right spot, it was obvious. The "walkway" down is slippery and has a bit of heather to steady you, but ideally, you can just travel down the snow. Once across the ridge, there was a moat. It didn't look that bad, so Josh chucked his poles in order to use his hands. The moat ate a pole. So if you go later in the season and find a pole, he would like it back. Once over the moat, we decided to eat a bit and rope up. At that point, we were near enough to the glacier that it seemed reasonable to rope up. The first few hundred yards left us wondering if we made the right choice, as Don said "if this gets any icier, I suggest unroping!" But then we hit that sunshine and everything was gravy.
Up the snow field and kicking steps, I got wiped and traded with the husband. He did the rest. Well, we were walking parallel to the Mountaineers, and then we ended up falling in behind them. I think Josh and Don could have lapped them, but I was glad they were slow because I am out of shape and wimpy. It was at least 700 degrees outside and I was really ready to eat some lunch. I mentioned to the last guy in the Mountaineers line that it was almost lunch time and he said he could hardly wait either. Once we got up to about 7600 feet, there was an outcropping of rock that would make a good campsite. Of course, we didn't camp there. Well, not long. We sat down and ate lunch about 12:15 and as I unpacked some yummies, I told that last guy in the line that I would give him some dehydrated apples, but he had to come and get them. His buddy overheard and he grabbed enough for them both. It was windy at our little spot and the larger group went on to find a less windy spot to stop.
We were moving again in no time, all fueled up on dehydrated apples and strawberries, with some chocolate and sandwiches as side dishes. This was it- the push to the top. So we fell in line behind the other group and slowly ascended. And I mean slowly. Again, I was ok with it, because I was struggling. I felt like I was about to pass out or puke, or something, and it was uncool. But still, I amazingly fought onward. I know.
Hours seemed to pass. And then we heard the leader of their group get up over the cornice onto the famous knife edge ridge. He got up there and sounded insecure. He was scrambling for pickets and trying to get things protected for the rest of his group and ours. He was pretty serious about how terrible it was up there and that you had to be really serious to get up there. By the time we got up there, I had worked myself into a bit of a frenzy. Then I saw that edge, and I was done. So about 100 feet from the summit, I wussed out and said I couldn't make it. Josh and Don were great about my wussiness and Josh said we came up as a team and would leave as one. So we took some pictures, and bailed right before the other group.
Going back down is really boring. Especially when you missed the summit by scardiness. Once we hit the talus field, we were really tired and talus sucks just as bad going down as up. Although on the way down we did get to see 2 pikas. So cute! And then you hit that horrendous trail. And you think it is never going to end. And for days it seems to drag on... oh, I mean, you know, you frolic down and skip back to camp. We got back about 7:15pm.
Back across the creek, out of the gross clothes, into some cotton, open a beer, and busted open a bag of salt and pepper chips. Then no stopping until we got to the Train Wreck.
Trail length: About 10 miles RT Elevation gain: About 6900 accumulated feet Water source: Above the talus at around 5500 feet Bugs inhaled by me: 5 Total time: About 14 hours We did not take crampons, but they may have helped on the knife edge. Pictures to be found at: http://picasaweb.google.com/dhoward.gg/EldoradoPeak#
Vesper Peak, 6/27/2010 Submitted by Emily Boehm Wadland
Early Sunday morning I met with Miyabi, Jess, Don and Karen. Don and Karen brought their delightful little dog, Dixie and Dave Salyer’s wonderdog, Baloo, fresh with a summer shave. Vesper Peak was our goal. Now to put the day in context, this was the first climb this group of recent grads had put together on our own… and secondly, over our 10 week course had only achieved two… yes, two summits. You do the math. Wet weather gave us many learning opportunities, but not many summit pictures.
So off we went with the tempered desire to not kill ourselves and still nail the summit. Weather was lovely. Sunny and warm on the drive in, but cloudy skies were in the forecast. From the Sunrise Mine trailhead we followed the well-established trail through the woods and over two easy stream crossings. It was a bit rooty, but overall easy going. The third stream crossing required either a strong resolve or the removal of boots, but very passable. There was some orange tape ensuring we didn’t miss it.
We came through the trees shortly thereafter and headed up a steeper grade towards Morning Star Peak with Sperry Peak to our right. Fairly rocky going, but again no mystery to the trail. The trail took us right into the drainage under Headlee Pass. Once in the drainage though the trail becomes hard to find and follow. No one could remember exactly where the pass was, but everyone vaguely remembered reading that if we headed straight back to the wall something would appear. Indeed, after a lot of talus and some snow, two steep, but manageable gullies made themselves available to our right after the last clump of trees. We chose the right of the two gullies and Miyabi kicked steps up the face. We were able to scramble up some rocks at the top of the pass and then broke for lunch. There was lots of discussion among the recent grads of “Is that Vesper? Maybe over there?” general doubting of the map and talk of napping. I think I saw Baloo roll his eyes… maybe that was Don, although the nap was appropriately attractive to him after having enjoyed El Dorado in a one day assault with the Gourly’s the day before. Anyway, we finally figured out which one was Vesper, agreed the map was right and found the trail again.
From there it was a narrow trail nearly under Sperry Peak to our right that lead us past the lake, also on climbers right, and up, up, up the snowfield to… the summit! The clouds and mist caught up with us and obscured views… but we wouldn’t be deterred. We made it! After some victory dances with the dogs, we enjoyed a 1,500 ft glissade back to the lake. Yours truly wouldn’t be bothered with dragging rain pants out of her pack and got to experience just what that much snow feels like shielded by only thin, ripstop nylon hiking pants. The trail out dropped us right on the top of Headlee Pass (sign and everything) which happened be at the top of the gully we didn’t choose coming up. (Both work fine for the record, but the sign is a nice touch and it was easier to find the trail from the left gully as you’re ascending.) Ice axes were used in the gullies both ways. Plunge stepping down in the soft snow was mildly sketchy due to the steep grade, but not rope-worthy. We were reminded just how much we love our ice axes. From the top of the drainage there was more glissading and then the trail out.
It was a success on all accounts. We had a great time and felt rewarded with a summit and safe return. We credit the class for getting us together and our stellar mountain skillz. Don’s pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/dhoward.gg/VesperPeak#
Duration: 7.5 hours Elevation: 4,200 ft Length: 10 miles
Officers: President – Jason Griffith (360) 419-7480 jkgriffith@gmail.com Vice President – Jonathan Frostad jonathanfrostad@hotmail.com Treasurer – Ginny Darvill gdarvill@fidalgo.net Secretary - Chris Noskoff cnoskoff@gmail.com Newsletter - Corrina Marote corrina.marote@gmail.com Webmaster - Steve Trent skagitalpineclub@comcast.net Programs – Lookout - John and Marie Erbstoeszer erbst@cnw.com Outings - Lynn Postler sancho999@comcast.net Conservation Com- Jenny Lee Frederick jennyleefrederick@gmail.com Social Com- Wade Bessett bessettw@hotmail.com Climbing Com - Chris Danilson
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