• Destination: Liberty Cap (14112')
• Date: July 16-18, 2010
• Starting Point:  White River Campground (c. 4300')
• High Point: Liberty Cap (14112')
• Round Trip Distance: c.20 miles, c. 10000' elevation gain
• Time: Three days
• Equipment: The ten essentials, two ice tools, pickets, ice screws
• Difficulties:  60 degree snow and ice, fifth class rock, glacier travel

Rainier: The jewel (and highest point) in the Cascades. I had climbed it already, but one route still called to me. Ptarmigan Ridge. Ptarmigan Ridge has been called the uncelebrated classic route on Rainier by climbers who know the mountain. The line does not climb a defined ridge crest, and is not as aesthetic as its more popular neighbor to the east Liberty Ridge, but the climbing is more sustained and more varied. I had already spent four days approaching the climb twice in the past, just to get blown out of the high camp by strong winds. I was hoping that the third time would be the charm.
Good partners are a must for this climb. The ability to pack light, travel fast on steep terrain, and technical climbing skills are required for success. Jason Shilling and Steph Abegg were the perfect choice for this climb. This was our first trip together since my near fatal accident on Mt Terror about a year ago. We had stayed in touch and planned for a reunion climb to celebrate still being able to get out and enjoy the outdoors. This would be an excellent opportunity to get back and climb together again and to climb a route that has been high on my list for some time. My legs were still not back to 100% after the injuries, but I had climbed Rainier two weeks prior, and was sure that they could pass muster.

Steph at the trailhead.  Note the ten pounds of camera gear.

We decided to approach the climb from the Whiter River trailhead and descend the Emmons Glacier Route. Since the climbing route cannot be descended, a different descent route must be chosen. Most parties elect to start at Mowich Lake, and descend the Emmons Glacier route, but this necessitates a car shuttle or hitchhike. Our approach would be longer with more elevation gain, but would alleviate the need for the car shuttle due to our starting and finishing points being the same.

In Glacier Basin

On Friday morning we met at the White River ranger station to get our permits and sort gear. Ptarmigan Ridge has two route options to gain the upper glacier and finish the difficulties. The first option traverses left under some seracs and climbs some steep ice and snow to the upper glacier. The other option traverses right up a steep exit couloir and over some fifth class rock to the glacier. We had initially decided to make the call when on the route and include gear for either option. We ended up deciding to carry four pickets, six ice screws, and an ultra light rock rack consisting of one cam, one tri-cam, and two nuts. The fifth class rock section was reported to be short and protected by two fixed pins, but we wanted to be sure that we could protect it if the pins were loose or hidden. We also packed two tents and two stoves as insurance just in case anything went wrong.

Crossing Curtis Ridge

The hike in the first day was up the washed out trail to Glacier Basin, then over St. Elmo’s Pass, over the Winthrop Glacier and onto Curtis Ridge. Our camp on Curtis Ridge had an excellent view of Willis Wall and Liberty Ridge and the avalanches that were continuously coming down. The next day was an easy crossing of the Carbon and Russell Glaciers and a climb and traverse up the start of Ptarmigan Ridge to the high camp at 10,200. This camp was also spectacular, being situated with a great view of the hanging seracs on the Liberty Cap Glacier, as well as being on warm rock and having running water nearby.

Camp on Curtis Ridge.  Willis Wall and Liberty Ridge in the background

Enjoying the scenery on Curtis Ridge

Crossing the Carbon Glacier

Approaching camp on Ptarmigan Ridge.  The route ascends the snowfields to the right of the hanging glacier

Camp on Ptarmigan Ridge

The next morning, actually it was late that night, my alarm rousted me from a fitful sleep. We ate a quick breakfast, donned our harnesses, and packed our gear. The route has a short descent through the firing range of the overhanging seracs on the Liberty Cap Glacier. We hurried through this section and arrived at the start of the route in short order. The first section climbs a leftward trending snow ramp for about 1500 feet to the start of a steeper couloir. The snow conditions were perfect for cramponing and it was secure enough to allow us to simo-solo. Reaching the steeper couloir, the snow hardened to water ice, but still took sticks nicely. At the top of this couloir, Jason set up a belay and we discussed our options. Due to the moderate ice, we decided to do a running belay and take the right hand option to the fifth class rock. This option was supposed to be the better one, giving us more varied climbing, and keeping us away from the firing line of the seracs on the Liberty Cap Glacier. We ran the next three pitches over varied conditions ranging from nice neve to insecure sugar snow over water ice, to alpine ice. The ice screws were very useful in this section, and the climbing fun but never more than moderate.

Steph on some steep snow

Jason led the final running belay up through a short mixed section to the start of the fifth class climbing and brought Steph and me up. We found the rock to be surprisingly solid for Rainier standards, and about 10-12 feet of actual rock climbing. The section was protected well by two solid pins that were easy to find and well placed. We did not need to use any of the rock gear that we had brought up the route, the pins being sufficient. Jason led the pitch in fine style, clipping his tools to his waist and using his hands. Following, I tried to dry-tool the pitch, but ended up dropping the tools to use my hands. The holds were nice, but not optimal for dry-tooling. The pickets, which had been mostly marginal down low, now came in handy for the upper belay for this section. There was not a good ice or rock belay available, but the pickets worked great in the solid snow up on the glacier.

Jason leading up to the exit couloir

Steph following to the exit couloir

Jason leading the rock step (photo by Steph)

Now all that was left was what seemed to be an interminable snow slog up the Liberty Cap Glacier to Liberty Cap. We eschewed the true summit and descended the Emmons Glacier back to camp Schurman. After a quick rest, we descended the Frying Pan Glacier back to Glacier Meadows and the trail back to White River campground. We still had to boulder hop the washed-out old trail; the new trail was a few days from being opened. After some river cooled brews at the car, we hit the road for home and some well deserved sleep.

On the Liberty Cap Glacier

Liberty Cap at last!

The descent down the Emmons Glacier

My impressions of the route were positive. Although it does not follow the classic ridge line like Liberty Ridge, I enjoyed the climb better than Liberty Ridge. The climbing was more challenging and interesting than Liberty Ridge. The fifth class exit section was like the cherry on the top. The mixed section was downright fun, and the rock section was solid and difficult enough to be challenging. I would guess that the difficulty rating was about 5.4, but it seemed harder climbing it at altitude with a full pack and crampons. It was a great re-union climb with a much better ending that our last climb together on Mt Terror, and my (mostly) rehabilitated legs were up to the challenge. Thanks to Jason and Steph for being great climbing partners and companions.

A quick descent!

Gear: For the climb in our conditions I would recommend two pickets, at least six ice screws, and no rock gear. Later in the season, consider taking fewer pickets and more screws. Two tools are necessary for the alpine ice and water ice sections. The approach from White River is recommended, alleviating the need for a car shuttle and making the day prior to summit day a relaxing and restful day. I would recommend the right hand variation of the climb due to the fun climbing through the fifth class section, and avoiding the seracs overhanging the other variation. A great route in the right conditions!