• Destination: Ruby Mountain (7401’)
• Date: January 31, 2011
• Starting Point: Canyon Creek Trailhead (c.1900')
• High Point: Jack Mountain (9066')
• Round Trip Distance: c.7 miles
• Equipment: The ten essentials, ice axe, crampons, snow shoes
• Difficulties: Route finding, steep snow travel

I took advantage of the nice weather on Monday to get up and do Ruby Mountain, directly above Diablo Lake. I’ve wanted to do this for a while and it seemed like it would be a good day to give it a shot. The highway is closed at the Ross Lake trailhead (MP 134), and the last bit of driving up the hill above Diablo was a bit icy. There were three-foot icicles hanging inside the tunnel, some of which had fallen and made a pile on the road. I parked at the pullout just west of Horsetail Creek (between the Diablo Lake overlook and the gate). I got a later start than I wanted to, arriving about 9 AM.





I went straight up from here, basically following the NW ridge the whole way. It doesn’t mess around with the elevation gain. There are occasionally great views looking down to the lakes on the way up. Several small cliff bands and steep icy sections must be navigated through; most were bypassed on the left. A couple spots were 50°+ and moats were hidden underneath. They may have been avoidable but I didn’t take the time to scout around. The snow became much deeper around 5000’, when it opened up a little. Everything down lower was very icy and slippery- crampons were a must. I quickly switched to snowshoes, and even then I was still post-holing 12”. I could tell this was going to be slow going, especially with only myself breaking the trail. It was not ideal snow conditions for climbing, but at least it remained cold all day so the snow was stable (most of the morning it hovered around 15°F).






After several hours of trudging slowly up, the summit came into view and it still looked a long ways off. I was starting to doubt that I’d have enough time. I reached the 6315’ bump on the ridge just below the summit and decided I’d give it a go. Fortunately the wind had scoured the ridge up higher so it was much firmer snow. I stayed near the ridge crest because the open slopes to the right were loaded with snow and VERY soft. One has to be very careful of the large cornices overhanging the edge on the left though. It was icy and steep in places, but I was happy when the summit came into view and I topped out at 1:45 PM. I enjoyed the spectacular views in all directions. Ross Lake & Hozomeen, Snowfield, Eldorado, Jack, Redoubt & Mox Spires, etc. were putting on an awesome show.







Just as I was ready to head down, I was startled by a skier who arrived from the south. I was a bit surprised to see someone else. He had come up from Happy Creek and had started from the gate about 45 minutes before me. I started back down and made very quick work of the ridge. There was quite a gorgeous sunset on the way down and I arrived at the car just after the sun tucked behind the mountains (4:30 PM). As I was walking back to the car the skier passed by me in his car.







~5 hours up, 2.5 hours down. I kept a steady pace and didn’t take many breaks because I knew I’d be tight on time. Be prepared for a long arduous day with 5500’ gain. An awesome winter trip, one of the few 7k peaks accessible this time of year. And the views are unbeatable!