Since I had to work the weekend, I knew that I would be itching to get out on Monday and do some climbing.  I knew that Wade also had Monday off, so I gave him a call to come up with a plan for a good one-day climb.  The original idea was to go into the Sisters and scramble the North and South Twins.  However, Wade had an important meeting to lead on Tuesday, so this plan was dropped in favor of something less time consuming and committing.  I had been looking at two climbs in the Washington Pass area, the Southwest Rib on South Early Winters Spire, and the Cave Route on Concord Tower.  It was decided to run up there, climb what we could, be back at the car at around 5:30PM to be back at home around 8:00PM for a good nights rest.  This was an important part of the plan, since the last two trips we had done, we had not arrived back home until around 4:00AM.

            I met Wade at the ungodly hour of 5:00AM at Sharps Corner.  He had arrived first, and was already sleeping in the back of the Vanagon (every little bit of sleep helps at that time in the morning).  We hit the road, with a brief stop at McDonald’s for some McMuffins for Wade and caffeine for me.  The drive up to the pass took us just under two hours at that time in the morning.  The behemoth motor homes were still tucked away blissfully in their campgrounds.  After talking to two other climbers in the parking lot, we started the short hike up to the Spire.  We decided to climb the Southwest Rib first because it was the longer route, and it was the one that interested us more. 

            There were two options to start the climb.  One was to start at the base of the rib, and the other was to climb up the gully past a huge chock stone and then traverse over to the start of the “aesthetic” climbing.  We opted for choice two.  After doing a quick belayed climb past the chock stone, we scrambled and down climbed over to the start of pitch three (according to Nelson).  In retrospect, I probably would start the climb at the base of the rib next time.  It is probably quicker and looks like nicer climbing. 

            The first pitch was the crux, an 80 foot 5.8 hand crack / flake.  The rock was solid and the climbing enjoyable.  Wade led the next two pitches, which included the 5.6+ run out slab.  He described it as being exposed and requiring good balance, but not particularly run out.  The next pitch was the “infamous” bear hug twin cracks.  This pitch was fun, and protected nicely with the two #4 camalots we had brought.  The rest of the climbing was fourth to low fifth class and went well, except for some heinous rope drag induced by me running out the pitches.  In fact, Wade had to prussik up the rope for a half a pitch.

            We reached the top after just under five hours of climbing, and had lunch while enjoying the view.  We decided that we had enough time to try for the Cave route on Concord, and started the descent down the loose and ugly Southwest couloir.  We had decided to descend this way to pick up some gear stashed above the chock stone.  We down climbed most of the way and made two rappels to arrive at our packs below the chock stone.

            A quick traverse over to the start of the Cave Route and we were ready to climb.  The one party we had met down in the parking lot was rappelling off of Concord Tower, and another party of two was coming off the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell.  We later learned that this party was a guide and his client.

            I lead off on the first pitch, which Beckey describes as 5.8 poor pro.  The route traverses up on a series of finger cracks, and then makes a move up to another finger traverse.  I flailed for a while trying to figure out the move up to the second finger crack.  It is a flaring off width off balance thing, but it does protect nicely with a #3.5 or #4 camalot.  After “thinking” for a while on that move, I made it up the belay, breathing a bit hard.  I belayed Wade up, and he prepared to lead out the next pitch into the cave.

            By this time, our nice day had taken a turn for the worse.  After we had finished the Southwest Rib, a few thunderstorms had taken up residence around us, but the skies were still clear overhead.  But by the time Wade started his lead, rumblings were heard overhead, and there were a few sprinkles in the air.  Wade decided to at least lead the next pitch into the cave and decide if we wanted to bail there.  By the time I followed, the rain was steady.  I could not believe that Wade had actually led this pitch in the rain.  It would have been enjoyable if I could have trusted my feet.  At the cave, we made two rappels back down into the notch, and proceeded down the gully back to the car.  On the way down, the rain increased, and the thunder and lightning became regular.  All of a sudden, across the valley a particularly impressive bolt of lightning accompanied by an impressive clap of thunder hit the hillside.  We are talking Old Testament proportions here.  After the blinding flash and rumble, all there was left was a huge cloud of steam or smoke.  Encouraged by this impressive demonstration of firepower, we made it back to the car rather quickly, running the entire length of the trail, and at 5:30PM no less.  When we arrived back at the parking lot, breathing somewhat hard, we met some motorcyclists that were taking refuge from the rain in the toilet.  They happen to mention to us that they had observed a scary lighting strike in the general direction from which we had come.  We were wet but at least we were still alive and on schedule.  We changed quickly and hit the road, headed west on highway 20. 

            Just after breaking into our post climb potato chips, we rounded a corner and braked abruptly to a stop.  In front of us covering the road and stretching for about 150 yards was a huge mudslide.  Water was still poring over the road and around boulders the size of washers.  Fifteen minutes earlier and we might have made it past.

            With the promise of a front loader to clear the mess we waited.  And waited.  And waited.  Finally at 8:30, the front loader showed up.  By 10:10PM she had made it about halfway through.  At 10:15, we were advised that the highway was not going to be opened that night.  Resigned to driving around, we stopped in Winthrop for some caffeine and gas station sandwiches.  At least I did not go for the week old jojos.  On the way home, we had a good view of all of the fires caused by the lightning that night.  Arriving back in Sharpe’s Corner at 3:30AM, I was finally home at 4:00AM.  Another late climbing trip.  Wades meeting?  He made it.  We don’t know if he was actually awake or not though.

Route Notes:

Southwest Rib:  The two #4 camalots worked perfectly on the twin cracks.  Nelson also recommends doubles in the two-inch range.  We brought two #2 camalots, and these came in handy.  We did not use many small nuts or cams.  The pitches protected well and the climbing was enjoyable.  I would recommend starting at the base of the rib.  Beckey’s description of the route is very accurate, Nelson’s is somewhat vague.

Cave Route:  Beckey describes this route as poor pro.  I thought that it protected well, as long as a #3.5 or #4 camalot was used on the first pitch.  The second pitch was enjoyable 5.7 on solid rock.  We did not continue past the cave for the final two pitches.  I would recommend this route as an option if the Becky Route on Liberty Bell were jammed.