Planned on taking 10 days to hike the Wonderland Trail, which is 93 or 94 miles around Mount Rainier.  The weather forecast predicted snow levels at 5000' and rain everywhere else.  I only had light summer gear with me.  Didn't want to drag out the heavy winter gear as my pack already weighed 50 pounds so I revised my itinerary to camp at low elevations then hiked the whole thing in 5 1/2 days.

The first day I hiked almost 4 miles to the first camp (Dick Creek) from Ipsut Creek Campground on the northwest side of the park.  I ended up holing up in the tent away from the rain all afternoon.  After about an hour down the trail I saw a small bear.  It never turned around to look at me but ran up the trail.  I fumbled with my camera, which took too long to warm up so I got a picture of its butt as it ducked behind a bush.  That was my last shot on the roll so I missed the prime picture of its profile heading upslope.  Timing was everything on this trip.  Around 5:00 p.m. 3 older men (60's, 70's, and 80's) arrived and set up in the adjacent site.  By then it had stopped raining so I chatted with them while they ate their dinner.  They had spent 9 days out and were on their last night.  Good timing weather-wise for them.  Bad for me.

The bear butt is up on the trail beyond the log.  Yeah, I know you don’t believe it’s a bear.

The second day started uphill (big surprise) in the rain.  I ended up hiking in the snow for at about 5400’.  It was truly beautiful and peaceful tramping through virgin snow.   The snow lifted my spirits as I hiked up around Mystic Lake.  Then what goes up must come down so I hiked down into the woods for a while then hiked back up to high elevation (6000') Berkeley Park and walked through sideways snow and sleet until the trail went back down into the woods and ordinary rain.  After I checked in with my guardian Ranger (I have a friend who is a park ranger and who made me promise I’d check in at the ranger stations) I camped in the woods at White River at about 4400'.  Total mileage: 16.

On the way up to Mystic Lake.

A typical day on the trail.

The third day was long since I had to continue hiking down into a valley (3800') then up over Panhandle Gap, which is at 6800'.  It rained some then stopped.  I had lunch in a backcountry shelter at 5900'.  Some day hikers came in and gave me a fresh nectarine.  Could I have been looking pitiful already?  Then I started the climb up into the sleet, snow, and fog up to the Gap.  The day hikers had turned around.  I didn't see any other backpackers; I plugged on.  Visibility was really low.  I'm sure the view would've been beautiful had the weather cooperated.  The terrain became rocky so the trail was hard to pick out in places, especially with sleet and snow pelting my face.  I had no landmarks to gain my bearings so I didn't look ahead very far, just picked out the trail under my feet.  No point trying to figure out where the trail might be going since I couldn't see anything anyway.  Crossed a couple short snowfields.  Marched on over what is called Ohanapecosh Park at about 6400'.  Finally started the descent to Indian Bar where I ran into ordinary rain again.  Hard rain.  Soaking wet.  Had lunch in a shelter at 5100'.  A brief lunch since I was cold.  Started the uphill climb to the next pass, which was at 5900' again.  Ran into more day hikers then started the long descent to Nickel Creek camp, elevation ~3400'.  Naturally since my timing was so good on this trip, the sun came out about the time I started the descent from the exposed ridge tops into the shady, protected old-growth forest.  I made camp at Nickel Creek, thinking I'd have it to myself.  No such luck.  Another solo hiker came in about an hour after I did.  He told me he was glad that I had broken trail through the snow over Panhandle Gap and Ohanapecosh Park since the trail wasn't obvious to him.  Later that night when I got up to pee I could see stars through the forest canopy.  It would’ve been nice to have camped higher so I could star gaze but as I mentioned before, my timing was off.  Way off.  Total mileage: 19

Panhandle Gap/Ohanapecosh Park.  Somewhere out there is the trail.

On the fourth morning, the sun was still out so I dawdled in camp, attempted to dry things when the temperature was only about 40F.  Futile.  At least the sun was out, even if I was still in the shady forest.  D (the other solo hiker) and I started off in the same direction together, yakking as hikers will do.  That day’s hike was relatively easy as it covered the south end of the in the Paradise River valley.  There was a climb to a little over 5000’ at Reflection Lakes, at which point it started drizzling again.  D and I parted ways.  The drizzle continued.  I took a picture of Narada(?) Falls.  Ran across some day hikers.  This part of the hike wasn’t that interesting because it was all forest.  Didn’t see any other backpackers.  Stopped at Longmire to get my permit changed once again and to check in with my guardian Ranger.  After checking the weather forecast, which indicated more rain but much higher snow levels, I was briefly tempted to go over to the lodge and “camp” there for a couple days.  In hindsight, that might’ve been a good plan.  A warm dry, bed.  Hot, fresh food.  Maybe a little wine or beer.  TV.  A telephone.  A chance to dry out my stuff.  But no, apparently I was on a mission and had only two more camping days left.  My dry stuff was still dry so I pushed on.  Just as I was about to leave, D caught up with me and changed his permit to camp with me the next two nights.  Started up the ridge to Pyramid Creek camp.  Lost D on the uphill and thought he’d changed his mind and opted for the lodge.  Probably would’ve been smart.  Got to camp to find all the sites full.  Another backpacker (Bob) offered to share his site.  He had an enormous expedition sized tent and a full roll of duct tape to take care of his blistered feet.  I gave him some of my ginger cookies.  D came in and ended up camping on a rocky site above me.  The only water available was a stream full of glacial flour.  No choice but to treat it, close my eyes and drink.  It looked much worse than it tasted.  The bear pole was broken so I amused my fellow backpackers with my attempts to hang my food sacks.  I’m glad they enjoyed the spectacle.  Total mileage: 18.5

Fall Colors

Indian Henry's hunting grounds

The rain came back in the night with a vengeance.  Apparently I was too optimistic about the mostly sunny day I’d had and failed to put the tarp over the tent.  If possible, the tent got even wetter.  In the morning it was raining too hard to enjoy breakfast so I loaded up snacks in my pockets, gobbled a mini bagel with peanut butter and headed out.   This day was going to be hard because I had three significant ridges to climb although the mileage was lower.  The first climb was up to Indian Henry’s Hunting Ground, normally one of my favorite places in the park.  I stopped to chat with a carpenter who was working on the backcountry cabin.  He offered me a cup of tea but I wanted to push on, get those ridges over with.  From Indian Henry’s the trail goes down into not particularly interesting valley then up to Emerald Ridge, which is interesting.  I had been to Emerald Ridge on my birthday earlier in the year plus it was raining and I was cold, even going uphill, so I didn’t stop to enjoy the view of the bottom of Tahoma Glacier.  The rain had stopped briefly and the wind picked up while I was on the ridge.  It cheered me to see spots on rocks drying out, which gave me (false) hope for a dry camp and possibly drying out my clothes as I walked on.  The rain didn’t stop long enough for that and soon I was descending into another river valley: South Puyallup.  After I crossed the river, took pictures of the brown, swollen stream the trail went uphill again to the final and highest ridge up to Lake St. Andrew and Klapatche Park.  Near the top, the sun peaked out.  I was giddy with delight and couldn’t stop singing songs of praise about the sun.  Fortunately no one was around, otherwise undoubtedly they would’ve rightly judged that I had lost my mind.  Finally Mt. Rainier came out of the clouds.  The view from Klapatche Park is the mountain and the Puget Sound.  If I didn’t have another several hours to hike to camp I would’ve lingered in the sun.  I dawdled long enough to warm up (finally) then started the final descent down to North Puyallup camp.  The sun was still out when I got there so I picked the sunniest site I could find.  D arrived in camp, close behind him was the rain.  It was my last night out.  I still had dry stuff but wasn’t sure whether it would last.  I still had one pair of dry socks, which was more than Bob had had that morning.  The sun would peek out followed by another rain shower.  I got into the tent and sleeping bag by 6:30 because I was still cold from the exposure.  Only 13 more hours and I would be on my way out.  The rain came and went all night.  I had the tarp over the tent, which at the very least kept more rain from getting in, even though the tent had been wet since my first night out.  Total mileage: 15

Gasp!  Is that blue sky?  Near Klapatche Park.  It only got better for a while.  A little while.

Final morning.  D and I ate breakfast together then got ready to hit the trail.  He only had two more nights out and still had dry stuff so the rain didn’t bother either one of us too much.  Plus I put on one more layer so wouldn’t suffer the exposure I did the previous day.  Put on my final pair of dry socks, which became moot as soon as I put my feet into my soggy boots.  My pack didn’t feel any lighter because off all the rain water I picked up along the way.  My heavy pack and wet feet didn’t slow me down much.  As we started to climb the first hill I turned around to offer D to walk ahead of me in case I was slowing him down.  He was at least 20 yards behind me and had already dropped his pack.  Can’t keep up with you, he said.  Okay, I’ll see you later then.  Except I didn’t.  I kept  walking.  And walking.  Repeat.  Climbed the hill to Golden Lakes.  Exposure, fog, rain, more of the same I’d seen the last several days.  Didn’t savor, even the fall colors, just pushed on.  And on and on.  The descent from Golden Lakes to Mowich River is about 2500’.  Heard crashing near the river and thought I’d see another bear.  Whatever it was didn’t come out.  Crossed the river then started up the long climb up to Mowich Lake.  I hiked the first 11 miles in 4 hours.  Only 9 or so to go.  More like 10.  Five miles uphill then five miles downhill to where I started.  More rain.  A long slog.  Got near the top and saw the dayhikers.  Chatted.  I was giddy that it was my last day out.  Started daydreaming about a Big Mac and French fries.  Lost my focus and slowed down.  Got up to Lake Mowich, turned around to see if D was anywhere near behind me.  No.  Pushed on to Ipsut Pass then down the incredibly steep descent to the Carbon River.  Slow going because it was so steep.  Plus I was tired.  My right hip ached.  My feet ached.  My shoulders ached.  My legs ached.  It was the first time I really caved into aches and pains.  That descent from the pass was the longest 5 miles on the whole trail.  When I finally reached the turn off back to the starting point I was starting to feel a little emotional.  I had done it.  It wasn’t a pleasant trip.  It was a test of my skills, endurance, and determination.  The parking lot was empty of people when I arrived.  No one to give me a high five but I couldn’t stop smiling as I changed out of soggy everything and into dry cotton.  Turned on truck heater full blast and listened to a Seattle radio station.  Nothing in the world had changed and there were a McDonalds and a dry bed in Auburn. Total mileage: ~21.

Would I do it again, given the forecast?  Not this trip, even though I had enough food for several more days and my dry stuff was still dry enough to be out for another night or two.   It might be a while before I’m willing to camp in the rain but likely by next year I’ll forget then plan another long trip in the rain.  Or bugs.  Or something.  There are parts of this trail that I’d like to see again in several shorter trips on nice days.  I’d like to camp at Mystic Lake on the north side and hike the Northern Loop in a 3-4 day trip.  I’d like to car camp at White River then day hike (~20 miles or so) over Panhandle Gap down to Box Canyon (past Nickel Creek) then go back up to White River and car camp again if I can convince someone to bring another car to shuttle from the south end.  The south end of the park would be fun to ski in the winter, especially up near Paradise.  I’d like to backpack the west side again, which is the most remote part of the park.  I’d like to enjoy Klapatche Park and Golden Lakes on nice days, linger a little for a change, maybe fish and swim. This trip would work best with another person who had a car so a shuttle would be possible.  Am I glad I did the trip?  Absolutely.  I can’t think of a time when I have been more physically and mentally challenged at the same time.  The hike should’ve been a lot easier since it’s a clearly marked and well maintained trail but the weather and speed at which I finished the hike were the primary factors. I feel like I ran the gauntlet, emerged a little battered and bruised but celebratory.