News Article: Washington State Trip	...back

In June Jason Keith, Access Fund policy analyst, traveled to Washington State and met with officials in the Mt-Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, the Wenatchee & Okanogan National Forest, and North Cascades National Park to discuss climbing-related management issues. The purpose of this visit was to be pro-active in dealing with potential closures, management planning, and recreational impact issues. Access Trails - A major issue on the Mt-Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest is "user-built" trails (such as those that provide access to Mt. Baring, Forgotten Peak, Mt. Persing, and Mt. Shuksan). If such trails become seriously degraded, the USFS may have to limit recreational users numbers or close the trails entirely. The Access Fund pledged to help with the trails issue by providing grant funding and collaboration on climber education and outreach. Road Closures are also an issue on Forest Service land in Washington. Some of the existing road system will be decommissioned while others will simply be "closed" through lack of maintenance. Near Darrington, the Copper Creek Road accessing the Green Giant Buttress is a road to be discontinued through "inaction" (it will no longer be maintained for the last 2-3 miles). Other roads, which provide climbing access but could be closed through lack of maintenance, include the Squire Creek Road accessing Squire Creek Buttress. Keith also met with officials on the Wenatchee & Okanogan National Forest concerning climbing issues on the Leavenworth, Methow and Tieton districts. Issues raised include owl/peregrine nesting and migration, high use levels, erosion, and route "cleaning" impacts to sensitive plant species. In the next few years, the USFS may develop a climbing management plan for this forest. Raptor Closures - Keith and Access Fund Regional Coordinator Andy Fitz spoke with USFS officials regarding the Midnight Rock and Noontime Rock raptor closure. The mandatory raptor closure at Midnight/Noontime followed an experiment in which the USFS instituted a voluntary closure; unfortunately this was not honored by some climbers. The USFS then imposed a mandatory closure that was lifted in mid-July after the peregrine pair were no longer using the nest. The closure is noteworthy, and fully supported by the Access Fund, because it is one of the most flexible and least restrictive of all raptor closures the AF has dealt with. Sensitive Plants - The Leavenworth office also expressed concerns that new route activity might impact the 50-odd sensitive plants found in the area - some of which tend to grow out of cracks. Six of these plants are near climbing areas such as the classic Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon. New routes might be limited to protect these sensitive and rare plants. Road Closures. The Leavenworth District will replace bridges up the Icicle Creek Road starting July 15, 2002. Eight Mile Road will be closed, thus greatly extending the approach time to the Enchantment Lakes area. The entire Enchantment allotment/quota (Alpine Lakes Wilderness) will be accessible through the Snow Creek Trailhead. The reason for the timing of the closure is because the USFS can't work in the winter, and because of conditions in their construction permit under the Endangered Species Act (impacts to the salmon spawning season). Fee Demo. The Leavenworth District made a point of their commitment to enforcing access fee collection. All violators will receive a $50 fine. The Access Fund opposes special "use fees" and will not support the USFS's effort to "police" fee collection. At the North Cascades National Park, Keith met with agency officials regarding a new sport climbing and bouldering area near Newhalem in the Ross Lake National Recreation Area. These new areas are getting a lot of attention and the rangers are concerned with bolting, cleaning of moss, extensive manipulation of landing areas (terracing), and caching of tools. The Park will likely develop a climbing management plan for the area with assistance from the Access Fund. It is likely that existing and new routes will be permitted in the future, but in the meantime climbers should hold off on creating new routes until the Park can do natural and cultural resource surveys. Perhaps as early as August 2002, the NPS will send out a "scoping" letter and solicit public input. If you would like to comment on climbing in the Ross Lake NRA, email Roy_Zipp@nps.gov to get your name on the mailing list.

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