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Skagit Alpine |
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Newsletter of the Skagit Alpine Club January 2007 “To promote the use and prevent the abuse of outdoor recreation areas."
____________________________________________ Skagit Alpine Club – January 2007 Newsletter Meeting: We're meeting January 3 in L-65 (Lewis Hall). Lewis Hall is in the southwest area of the campus near the big parking lotat the corner of College Way and LaVenture. The following shortcut is to a campus map http://www.skagit.edu/images/color_mvCampus.pdf
Secretary‘s Report: SAC Annual Holiday Party /December 2006:
A very big Thank You goes to Matt, the owner of the Reverie BBQ, who graciously provided a warm and cozy restaurant space for our potluck, free of charge I might add. His restaurant opened the next day for the first time. The Reverie provides wonderful smoked meats and BBQ, among other things, for both eat in or take out. The last week of every month, Matt provides dinners for free, for those folks who are having a tough time making it through the end of the month. If you are in the area or need a good lunch, I would recommend an order from our friends at The Reverie BBQ (419-8227).
Our new Prez, Paul Sherman and our new Vice Prez, Jeff Smith ran the first meeting by our newly elected officers. Jeff Smith, if he does say so himself, which he does, is the best Vice Prez this club has ever had, and Paul did a good job too. Angie, we miss you and hope that the new year will bring our secretary out in flying colors. Our treasurer, Kim Griffith is in Thailand, having done a great job of financial planning and time management for herself. We will be glad when she returns too. And to all you old timers who couldn’t make it, we are holding down the SAC fort, hoping that you have the best holiday ever, feeling healthy and strong. We look forward to more adventures together with you in the new year!
New Biz – Welcome to new members Chris Steckler (our first club acupuncturist) and Holly Freishtat, a Skagitonian to Preserve the Farmlands person, and Jean Hanson, a teacher from Stanwood.
New Location- Keep an eye on the website for updates, each quarter, to accommodate the college class schedule, we may have a new meeting room at Skagit Valley College.
Committees- Our new prez noticed after reading the by laws, that we have in place several committees, which we have not officially organized this year. If you would like to know more about these committees or get involved, please call the committee chairperson. The following people volunteered to chair these committees: Conservation Com- Maggie Sullivan Social Com- Wade Bessett Presentation Com- John Seehorn Climbing Com- Rick Rodgers and Chris Danilson will mentor with Rick this year to prepare to lead the climbing class next year.
Climbing Class- Speaking of climbing, the SVC class registration starts Feb 13th. The last couple of years the class has not been full. In an effort to improve this status, flyers were made by Jenny and Wade and several should be posted in various appropriate locations as we speak. IF you see a good spot for a flyer you can download one off the SAC website or contact Wade and he can make sure it gets posted. The climbing committee met with Rick Rodgers and the general class format was laid out. If you are interested in getting involved contact Wade or email Rick at stillyfish@valleyint.com.
Old Biz- The treasurer’s report stated we have about $4600. The climbing class will bring in a certain profit as well. The discussion continues about how to spend it. John Seehorn motioned that we offer Helen Thayer, the first woman to solo the N Pole, $250 to come and speak to our club. Laurie seconded the motion and it was approved. Hopefully if she accepts, we will hear her presentation sometime in the spring. Other ideas loosely discussed include; a digital projector, a slide projector, a screen, a cabin for a winter club outing, etc.. If you have an idea, put it to paper and submit it to the officers for future discussion.
A BIG THANK YOU TO JONATHAN FOR A FANTASTIC PRESENTATION: Beaches, Buddha and Monasteries! The photos and stories were wonderful. I think everyone who saw it is thinking about a trip to Vietnam, Thailand and Burma now.
Also thanks to all who brought such delicious food. Mmm, I can still taste the chicken mole enchiladas and peppermint cheesecake. Thanks also to all who helped with set up and clean up. Many hands make light work and a fun evening for all! Program: Come see and hear about Amy Sattler's trip to Mongolia where she visited with many nomadic families that generously welcomed her with tea and treats. These isolated cultures have been able to maintain many of their ways of life for centuries. She and her friends also climbed the second highest mountain in Mongolia, which is where Mongolia, China, and Russia meet. During the trek, they brought along three Mongolians who had hardly hiked in their lives and camels that carried the equipment.
Trip Report: Steve Trent
It was late in the season, and I was itching to get out one last time before the weather closed in. Having attempted Jack Mountain twice, and having been turned around twice, I wanted another chance to excel. The weather guessers promised bomber conditions, so the plans were laid. I had perused several trip reports on the web, and all of them described the South Face as an interesting alpine scramble with fourth class rock. Having been turned around on so-called fourth class for lack of a rope, I decided to include one along with the rest of the requisite gear. Finding a partner was somewhat more difficult than choosing the destination. I had the opposite schedule, working the weekend but with the weekdays off. I tried to entice Wade with promises of summit glory, but not even he could make arrangements to take time off work. I considered a more moderate objective, but decided that the South Face would make a reasonable solo. So I informed Wade of my objective and schedule, and started making plans. I spent the morning of the first day packing. One of the online reports stated that the time required to hike to the Jerry Lakes from the trailhead was an easy five hours. So I started of at a leisurely pace at the Canyon Creek Trailhead in the afternoon. The trail starts by crossing Granite Creek, then another crossing over Canyon Creek soon afterward. The trail then climbs relentlessly to 5200’ in about three miles to the intersection with the Crater Mountain Trail. I hung a left here to follow the Crater Mountain Trail past Crater Lake and up around to the south shoulder of Crater Mountain. At this point I was looking at the time wondering who had made it to the lakes in five hours. I had been moving at a good pace (for me), and was definitely not taking it easy. If I kept the current pace, I should reach the Jerry Lakes just before nightfall. I left the trail at about 6500’ to traverse around the big bowl underneath Crater Mountain aiming make the saddle just to the east of the mountain at 7100’. Dropping over the pass onto the Jerry Glacier, I picked my way through multiple crevasses and moats. The glacier was much more broken up than I had expected, and I was glad I had packed the crampons and ice axe. A few ice screws might be nice here in late season due to the hard ice and difficulties exiting the glacier. A short climb over a saddle lead to the Jerry Lakes basin. I had taken my time navigating the glacier it was now getting dark. I hurried down the to the lakes and set up camp next to a small lake. It took me five hours and fifteen minutes of constant travel at a good pace to reach the lakes. I had heard a rumor of a ramp or gully to access the ridge north of Crater Mountain from the glacier, but I did not see any feasible route in that direction. This would be a more direct route to the mountain and save some elevation loss in the descent to the Jerry Lakes. The Jerry Lakes basin is one of the more scenic areas that I have visited in the North Cascades. The basin is not often visited due to the difficulties in getting there, and is worth the trip as a destination. On my return, I considered staying another night and enjoying the scenery, but the weather was supposed to move in. After an enjoyable night stargazing and a quick breakfast, a short bit of third class scrambling over the ridge west of the lakes led to another beautiful basin directly east of Jack. I saw several bear here on my climb of the ridge to the beginning of the route. I started climbing the face just east of the first snowfield. The climbing here was loose and occasionally wet third class with some fourth class moves thrown in for good measure. After about a hundred feet of this, the climbing eases to second class with steps of third class. The rock was loose and protection was none existent. There were not even any rap stations on the entire route. I climbed up to the left of the summit head wall, where I finally cached my rope, harness and gear. A gully led up to the summit ridge. A final exposed third class scramble led to the summit and some excellent views. I toke me three and a half hours of constant travel from the lakes to reach the summit. After a leisurely lunch and some picture taking, I started the descent. Here I was glad that I did not have a partner because I was constantly kicking the loose rocks down. Luckily I had built a cairn at the start of the hard to find fourth-class section. After carefully descending this tricky section, I was relieved to be off of the face and back on moderate terrain. The trip back was uneventful, and I found myself back at the trailhead before dark. Although climbing this route with a partner would have been more fun, I think that the South Face of Jack was a reasonable solo. The glacier was hard ice late in the season and was reasonably low risk. The rock on the face was very loose and I was constantly knocking stuff down, which would have made for greater risk for a partner. There were no opportunities for protection, and I did not find a rap anchor that I would trust. The rope and gear got a free ride up to 8700’ before I finally dumped them to shed the weight. Early season the rope would be good for travel across the glacier, but leave it at camp for the climb. Fit, competent climbers could climb this route in a day. Jack Mountain is in a great position for views into the Pasayten and the Pickets, and the Jerry Lakes approach is beautiful. However, if I were going to climb it again, I would try one of the ridge routes on the north side of the Mountain and try to avoid the loose rock. I would recommend this route only to experienced climbers who are comfortable on exposed fourth class.
Special Announcement: Hi Everyone:
I am signed up to climb Mt. Rainier next August for an organization called Big City Mountaineers, which provides outdoor experiences for kids who might not normally have the resources to experience the outdoors. My goal is to raise $3500, which will help over 200 at risk kids around the nation. If you would rather donate by check you can do the following:
1. All donation checks should be made payable to Big City Mountaineers. 2. In the Memo line on the check have your donors write 'SFS-Donald Jenkins'
Summit For Someone
You could also contact me and I will send you a stamped envelope.
Did I mention it is tax-deductible?
If you have any questions about the climb or the organization, let me know. Here is a link to Big City Mountaineers:
http://www.bigcitymountaineers.org/
Also, if you have any training tips about climbing Mt. Rainier or other useful information, please email. (Ed. Note: this could be useful information for the entire club and I would be happy to put that info in the newsletter).
Thanks.
Don Jenkins Oak Harbor 360-679-4410
Officers: President – Paul Sherman 293-2984 or 391-6078 (cell), pshermanpt@verizon.net Vice President – Jeff Smith Treasurer - Kim Griffith (360) 419-7480 jasonandkimgriffith@verizon.net Secretary - Angie Vandenhaak Angela.Vandenhaak@wwu.edu (360) 756-6950
Newsletter - Corrina Marote corrina.marote@gmail.com Webmaster - Steve Trent skagitalpineclub@comcast.net Programs - John Seehorn jseehorn@hotmail.com Lookout - John and Marie Erbstoeszer erbst@cnw.com Outings - Lynn Postler sancho999@comcast.net Conservation Com- Maggie Sullivan Social Com- Wade Bessett bessettw@hotmail.com Climbing Com- Rick Rodgers stillyfish@valleyint.com, Chris Danilson (mentee)
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